Cameos date back centuries with examples crafted of various materials such as shell, stone, lava, celluloid, and glass. This article focuses on the shell cameos of the 19th century which found favor during Queen Victoria’s reign. Worn by both men and women, cameos were appreciated by Napoleon who commissioned a crown inset with several ornately carved examples for his wife, Josephine. The cameo was often a souvenir obtained during a ‘grand tour’ through Europe, symbolizing the wearer’s recent excursion and thus demonstrating refinement. Primarily crafted in Italy, shell cameos could be crudely sculpted or finely detailed profiles of women, men, Roman soldiers, Biblical scenes, or mythological gods and goddesses. Generally, the artisan made use of the size and shape of the shell for the final depiction. Cameos of the era were encased in a variety of settings including base metals, gold, or silver.
When adding a cameo to your wardrobe several things should be considered. Modern day plastics are often passed off as shell therefore it is important to know the aspects of authentic pieces. Shell cameos are translucent when held up to light and thus reveal any cracks, stress fractures, or striations. While natural striations do not impact worth, stress fractures or cracks notably reduce value. In addition, when viewing the backside of a shell cameo it should be concave like the natural curves of the shell from which it was carved. Also, study the features of the carving. If the woman has a modern day hair style or turned up nose, chances are it is a modern reproduction. Facial features, hairstyles, and attire can help one to date a piece, but keep in mind it is not an absolute. Sometimes an older cameo is set in a more recent bezel so avoid using the setting as the only means to determine age. Before investing hard earned money into a reproduction, shop for authentic pieces at reputable local antiques stores or online sites. In some cases affordable shell cameos can be purchased for comparable prices to that of a plastic imitation.
Because shell cameos are made from a living seashell they require a certain amount of care. Store them in a soft lined container but refrain from using cotton as this dries them out. They should be cleaned with warm water, gently patted dry, and oiled once a year (mineral oil is generally recommended). Because they are frail, take care not to drop them or store them amongst other items as this can lead to scratches, cracks, or chips.
Cameos are tiny treasures that when well cared for can be enjoyed for generations. These diminutive works of art compliment 1860s attire and enhance an individual’s persona, adding a touch of class and distinction.
-By Kim Poovey